{"id":485,"date":"2020-07-14T02:46:42","date_gmt":"2020-07-14T02:46:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/?p=485"},"modified":"2020-07-14T02:46:49","modified_gmt":"2020-07-14T02:46:49","slug":"paralever-tool","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/paralever-tool\/","title":{"rendered":"Paralever tool"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"smallfont\"><strong>Paralever Thrust Bearing Adjustment.<\/strong><\/div>\n<hr size=\"1\" \/>\n<div>Just finished doing this job today and saw this thread. Apologies if it&#8217;s been covered but a search didn&#8217;t throw it up!<\/p>\n<p>A couple of weeks back, when cleaning the bike (04 GSA) I did the usual check of the rear wheel play and found that there was a definate movement both top and bottom and side to side.<\/p>\n<p>Research showed that this was likely to be caused by the Paralever thrust bearings needing some adjustment.<\/p>\n<p>This one&#8230;..<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/92621249-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The adjuster is the 12mm hex nut in the centre, the 30mm outer is a lock-nut.<\/p>\n<p>The adjuster is torqued to 7Nm the lock-nut to 160Nm. Both are liberally coated in a thread-lock compound on assembly and needs to be heated to 100 deg C to soften the compound before attempting to loosen them.<\/p>\n<p>Cut the tie on the forward end of the gaiter and peel it to the rear to avoid damaging it and then heat the lock-nut with a hot-air gun until the thread-lock softens.<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/92621248-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Use a suitable breaker bar to undo the lock-nut.<\/p>\n<p>Clean the lock-nut and the adjuster to get rid of the old thread-lock compound. I used acetone.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/92621252-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Holding the adjuster at an angle and pouring some acetone into the top of the lock-nut&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/92621258-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>then turning the lock-nut down<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/92621259-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>is a quick way of cleaning both threads.<\/p>\n<p>Clean the Paralever thread too. Acetone and a wooden cocktail stick works well.<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/92621253-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>There is a BMW Special Tool that enables you to hold the adjuster while torquing-up the lock-nut.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/93188341-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Basically it&#8217;s a 30mm socket with a section cut out and a 12mm hex-key.<\/p>\n<p>I bought a 30mm impact socket for \ufffd8 (about $12 I think) and got a machine shop to grind out a slot.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/96446860-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>To re-assemble you will need something like the above to hold the adjuster at it&#8217;s low 7Nm torque value while you put 160Nm into the lock-nut.<\/p>\n<p>Put a jack under the Paralever arm to prevent it moving while you swing on the wrench.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/96446859-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It also helps to line up the thrust bearing.<\/p>\n<p>Coat the adjuster with thread-lock and start it off by hand. Then swap to a small torque wrench and use that to tighten it to the 7Nm value (not very much!).<\/p>\n<p>At this point I used an indelible pen to mark a vertical line on the adjuster so that I could instantly see if the adjuster moved much while tightening the lock-nut.<\/p>\n<p>Put the 12mm hex-key into the adjuster and then tighten the lock-nut with a ring-spanner (wrench) as much as you can while holding the hex-key steady &#8211; preventing the adjuster from turning with the lock-nut.<\/p>\n<p>Then insert the hex-key into the &#8216;special tool&#8217; and again use the hex-key to hold the adjuster while tightening the lock-nut to 160Nm.<\/p>\n<p>Replace the rear wheel and check for play. I checked that the pen line remained vertical before a little acetone removed the mark.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/96446862-M.jpg\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Hey-presto! No play in the rear wheel. (As I was doing this and a two-year service, I also removed the rear drive cover and checked the crown-wheel bearings just to be on the safe side. All it cost me was the price of an &#8216;O&#8217; ring and an oil seal but gave me peace of mind).<\/p>\n<p>If you want to see the BMW Special Tool and some rough dimensions for making your own, here goes.<\/p><\/div>\n<div><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-486\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/image-2.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"314\" \/><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Paralever Thrust Bearing Adjustment. Just finished doing this job today and saw this thread. Apologies if it&#8217;s been covered but a search didn&#8217;t throw it up! A couple of weeks back, when cleaning the bike (04 GSA) I did the usual check of the rear wheel play and found that there was a definate movement [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/485"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=485"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/485\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":499,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/485\/revisions\/499"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=485"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=485"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=485"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}