{"id":12,"date":"2020-06-20T00:04:40","date_gmt":"2020-06-20T00:04:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/?p=12"},"modified":"2020-06-25T19:18:13","modified_gmt":"2020-06-25T19:18:13","slug":"abs-low-voltage-fix","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/abs-low-voltage-fix\/","title":{"rendered":"ABS Low Voltage Fix"},"content":{"rendered":"<p align=\"center\"><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">ABS-II Low Voltage Fault Modification<\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">By Mick McKinnon with words from Brian Curry, IBMWR President(s)<\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><b>Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work described in this document. <\/b><\/p>\n<p>First Release 10\/26\/04<br \/>\nFinal Release 10\/27\/04<br \/>\nMaintenance Release 11\/19\/04<br \/>\nFormatted for PDF by Tom Childers, 02\/21\/05<br \/>\nOriginal Formatting by NickJC<\/p>\n<p align=\"left\"><i><b><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Please note there has been some phenomenal work done on the ABS I and II systems by Brian Curry. I suggest you see the fault code indices and how to get a reading BEFORE resetting your ABS system or proceeding with this document.<\/span><\/b><\/i><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">\n<h3><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Legal Disclaimer<\/span><\/h3>\n<p align=\"center\"><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Warning: This modification is NOT recommended by any official BMW authority. Modifying your ABS function is serious stuff and should NOT be attempted if you are not comfortable with cutting into your wiring harness.\u00a0 If you do not follow the instructions you can destroy your ABS Control Unit.\u00a0 You are fully responsible for any modification you make to your motorcycle. It worked for me, I have no knowledge or assurance it will work for you. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h3>Background<\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Ever since it\ufffds introduction in 1994, BMW\ufffds ABS-II has been reported as prone to low voltage faults during engine start-up.\u00a0 The ABS-II Control Unit begins monitoring the battery voltage as soon as the ignition is turned on and the ABS II control module starts the initialization and checkout sequence.\u00a0 If the battery voltage drops below a preset threshold, ABS-II will fault with a low voltage indication.\u00a0 I believe this low voltage threshold is set too high in most cases.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">When the engine is started and the starter motor is engaged, there is a very high current draw on the battery while the starter is operating.\u00a0 The high current draw lowers the battery voltage.\u00a0 If your battery is more than a few months old, and not maintained on a trickle charger or Battery Tender\ufffd, or if it is cold outside, your electrical system can fall below the low voltage fault threshold.\u00a0 This fault can almost always be cleared by stopping and restarting the now warmer engine after a brief run period to recharge the battery.\u00a0 This can be aggravating. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">I looked at several solutions to this aggravating ABS fault.\u00a0 One was a time-delay relay to start the ABS-II system initialization after the initial engine start.\u00a0 These relays are available, but rather expensive.\u00a0 Another solution would be a manual switch inline with the ABS supply voltage. However this would mean finding a place to install the switch and ensuring it could not be accidentally left turned off.\u00a0 Neither solution was as attractive as the one this document describes.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h3>Overview &amp; Theory<\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">The theory is to automatically supply the ABS unit with a steady, stabilized voltage for the initialization and test procedure after engine start.\u00a0 Since the engine starter motor inrush current sometimes causes the battery voltage to dip below the ABS preset low voltage fault level, having it perform the initialization and test procedure after that condition should eliminate the spurious fault. However, a long term low voltage condition will still cause a low voltage fault indication.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Adding a relay powered from the Alternator D+ output provides an effective automatic way to start the ABS system after the starting voltage\/current variances.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">The ABS unit gets its main power feed directly from battery via the ABS relay in the modulator assembly.\u00a0 The voltage, supplied via the new relay, is used for ABS logic and control functions.\u00a0 It comes directly from the ABS TEST relay in the relay box under the seat.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Once the system voltage has stabilized, engine running and alternator supplying voltage, the ABS initialization and test proceeds as it would normally.\u00a0 This just delays the TEST until after the starter motor has drawn its big chunk of current with low battery voltage to start the engine <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">I personally never found the time to actually test this theory.\u00a0 But thanks to Asko Paakkinen in Finland (who took the time to install and test this on his R1100RT), we have a solution.\u00a0 Asko sent me a note describing how he modified his bike.\u00a0 I added a few details and am documenting the modification for anyone who wants to experiment.\u00a0 I performed this modification on my 1996 R1100RT and tested it with satisfactory results. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><b><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">NOTE: SEE DISCLAIMER ABOVE, YOU are responsible for any modification you make to your motorcycle. <\/span><\/b><\/p>\n<p>The modification looks like this on the R1100 wiring diagram.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/ABS-IIWiringK1Plus.jpg\" width=\"1012\" border=\"0\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Here is a drawing of the relay box under the seat, where the new relay will be installed. This will be helpful as you read the instructions on how and where you can install the new relay.<\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Figure2.jpg\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p align=\"left\">\n<h3>Modification Instructions<\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Review all the information below BEFORE cutting into the system(s) and proceed at your own risk.<\/span><\/p>\n<ol start=\"1\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Remove the fairing, disconnect the battery and remove the fuel tank.\n<p><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Disconnect the ABS connector and remove the rubber boot from the lower end of the connector. The ABS connector looks like this:<\/span>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Remove the three phillips head screws from the connector top and slide the connector body out of the housing, as shown in the next two pictures:<\/span>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Figure7.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Figure8.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\">Locate the pin #15 connector (solid green insulated wire) at the lower (cable end) of the connector. The pins are labeled on the ABS Control Unit, as shown below:<\/span>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Figure9.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<ol start=\"3\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;\"><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Remove the fuse\/relay box cover and remove the ABS warning relay (turquoise relay in the relay box right front portion). Verify, using an ohm meter, that the large blade connector at the front of this relay socket connects to pin #15 of the ABS Control Unit connector in Step 2. (0 ohms)\n<p><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Connect 12\ufffd of at least 22awg hookup wire to the solid green insulated wire (0.5mm) below ABS warning socket base (this wire is attached to the large blade connector in the relay socket) and route it to the empty space just behind the yellow starter relay at the left side of the relay box. (TIP: I used 22awg Teflon insulated wire from http:\/\/www.ba-electronics.com\/nte-wire.htm#wt) <\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Cut the solid green wire mentioned in step #2 above about 2\ufffd from the connector body. <\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Tape or use heat shrink tubing to insulate the solid green insulated cut wire end in the cable bundle. <\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">TIP: I drilled a 5\/16\ufffd hole in the relay box left side and installed a rubber pass-through grommet to keep the relay box sealed, as shown below:<\/span>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<ol start=\"4\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Use more hook up wire to run a ground wire to the same empty space in the relay box. Any good ground can be used (TIP: I used a convenient empty 6mm tapped hole on the left side of my transmission housing just behind the starter:<\/span>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Figure5.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<ol start=\"5\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Run two lengths of at least 22awg hookup wire from the relay box to the ABS connector.\u00a0 Route these wires along the existing cable harness and cable tie them to it.\u00a0 (TIP: I used blue wire for the alternator D+ connection and red wire for the automatically controlled 12V to the ABS connector pin #15).\n<p><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<ol start=\"6\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Attach the new wire (red in my case) from the empty space in the relay box to the solid green insulated wire stub from connector body pin #15.\n<p><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<ol start=\"7\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Remove the D+ connector (1\/4\ufffd slip-on connector) from the alternator and remove the housing cover. Attach the new blue wire to the connector and re-install the connector on the alternator. (TIP: I carefully opened the strain relief on this slip-on connector and soldered the new wire to the connector).\n<p><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<ol start=\"8\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Next install slip-on connectors on the 4 new wires just added to the relay box.\u00a0 (TIP: I used insulated 90\ufffd slip-on connectors:<\/span>\n<p align=\"center\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/Figure3.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<ol start=\"9\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">I used a Bosch headlamp relay P\/N 0 332 019 150 with integral mounting tab.\u00a0 Mount by drilling a small hole in the front vertical surface of the relay box empty space just to the rear of the starter relay.\n<p><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<ol start=\"10\" type=\"1\">\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol start=\"10\" type=\"1\">\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Proper relay connections are critical to proper circuit operation! Connect the <u>new<\/u> green insulated wire from the ABS warning relay to new relay (K1) pin #30. <\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Connect the <u>new<\/u> ground wire to new relay pin #85 and the <u>new<\/u> blue wire from the D+ connection to new relay pin #86. <\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Connect the new wire, going to ABS connector pin #15 to one of the new relay #87 pins. <\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">Mount the new relay using the hole drilled in step 9. <\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h3>Finalizing and Operational Testing of your Modification<\/h3>\n<ol>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n<li>Reinstall the fuel tank and reconnect the battery.\u00a0 Look for smoke.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n<li>When the ignition is switched on only the upper ABS lamp on the dash should be solidly illuminated.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n<li>Start the engine. As soon as the Gen\/Alt lamp goes out, both ABS warning lamps should flash in unison.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>If not, go back and recheck all your work to ensure ALL the connections are made correctly.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Arial;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Everything works? \u00a0Good! \u00a0Reassemble the bike enough for a test ride.\u00a0 Go find some dirty pavement and test the ABS function.\u00a0 If all is well, you\ufffdre done and you will not have the aggravating low voltage ABS fault on startup.<\/b><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>ABS-II Low Voltage Fault Modification By Mick McKinnon with words from Brian Curry, IBMWR President(s) Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work described in this document. First Release 10\/26\/04 Final Release 10\/27\/04 Maintenance Release 11\/19\/04 Formatted for PDF by Tom Childers, 02\/21\/05 Original Formatting by NickJC Please note there has been some phenomenal work [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":186,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12\/revisions\/186"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=12"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/advwisdom.com\/a\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=12"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}