KLR maintenance

KLR Subframe Mod

KLR650 Subframe drill thru step by step walkthru

Enclosed is a step-by-step process for the replacement of the stock KLR650 �sub-frame� fasteners. 2x kits are available. I did not know both kits accomplish the same task, so I ordered both. One kit is a fastener replacement (the $5.00 kit). The other kit is the �drill thru� install (the 24.99 kit). I will illustrate installation both kits. The intent of the upgrade is to strengthen the sub-frame joint with stronger cap head (allen key) style fasteners. The upper sub-frame bolts are known to fail. This will “load-up” the lower sub-frame bolts and stress the fuel tank connection, wire harness, and exhaust system. This upper sub-frame fastener failure could be catastrophic to the rider and/or cause extensive bike damage. Both kits are available from:
I would recommend reviewing these threads prior to starting this mod:,721.0.html and,878.0.html
5.00 kit
The $5.00 kit will swap out the 4x sub-frame 10.9 grade fasteners with 12.9 grade fasteners of the same size. The shear strength capability, of the $5.00 kit fasteners, is 20% greater than the stock OEM sub-frame fasteners.
24.99 kit
The $24.99 kit will have the user replace the 2x upper sub-frame fasteners with a single larger, stronger single fastener. The 2x lower sub-frame fasteners will be the same as the $5.00 kit. The upper sub-frame bolt will be the 12.9 grade 10mm size. This modification will effectively double the strength capability of the upper sub-frame load bearing joint. The joint will now be a �double shear joint� (that is a good thing).This will minimize load transfer eccentricities, eliminates the fastener transition failure mode.

Start with a little research. Articles, clips, lessons learned, fastener data collected for summary discussion.

Kits as delivered. Lower baggie is the 5.00 kit the upper baggie contains the 24.99 kit

Cap fastener head 12.9 stamped on manufactured head. These are the strongest metric (non-aviation) fasteners available.

size M8-1.25 metric coarse

length measured at 30mm

that�s the size for all 4x fasteners

Instructions included with the $5.00 kit

Put bike on level lift, and strap it down.

Do not work from kick stand.

start to uncouple fuel line from tank

side panels

tank attach fasteners

tip here: drape rag at frame spine/tank gap frame here. That way, when manipulating tank off frame/tank pucks your frame spine finish will not be abraded by the tank!

all the stuff removed. Note more detail of these items removed can be found here:,950.0.html

I started from left side, lower sub-frame bolt. Swap out one at a time, so holes stay aligned. 12mm socket. Rotate counter-clockwise. Use a 6 point socket. Mine came off easy.

stock and kit replacement. Both same size.

tools for install 6mm allen head socked for torque wrench

add red locktite and tighten.

torque to 18 ft-lbs. If doing the drill thru upper frame mod don�t torque yet, just tighten

add OEM fasteners to all KLR replaced fasteners collection cup

getting full here…whew! Repeat process on opposite lower sub-frame side

lower sub-frame installed

upper subframe �cap style� fastener to remove

Upper frame fastener as removed. These were factory installed with loc-tite, as shown. Mine came off easy.

red loc-tite these.

install to same torque as lower sub-frame fasteners (18 ft-lbs)
All done with the $5.00 kit. The shear strength of the joint has increased by 20% for a $5.00 cost and the satisfaction that they have been installed properly!
Now for the $24.99 kit…I�ll focus the rest of the pitch on the upper �drill thru� process. This is tricky. First start with the bike on stand, seat, tank, panels are off.

Drill thru instructions supplied. Abit more detailed.

this is the task….preparing a hole and installing this 10mm bolt thru your upper sub-frame right about here. You�ll need to prepare (align, and step drill) the hole for install. That�s were thing can go wrong real fast. The installation part has a few issues also.

10 mm Bolt shank diameter = .3935 inch

bolt size = M10-1.5 Metric coarse thread, self locking nut included in 24.99 kit

bolt length 5.5 inches or 140 mm as shown. Those are the 2x drills provided in the Drill thru kit. The Bushing was also provided.

Smaller drill size = .3085 inch

larger drill size =.4025 inch. Remember bolt is .3935 inch. This will be a “clearance fit” fastener with .009 inch clearance. The Hole fill would be considered a “Class II”.

a view of the kit supplied bushing. This will go on the nut side of the bolt. It is not part of the drilling process

from the right side of the bike, loosen the clamp holding the carb intake boot. Use phillips screw driver and un-thread till clamp does not bind boot connection.

loosen the lower sub frame bolts 1x full turn, remove the upper sub-frame bolts. Remove both of them. It’s ok your frame will not collaspe.

grab the rear rack and gently push it back. Use a rocking motion. Keep and eye on your wire harness, exhaust, and carb boot. Your sub-frame will pivot about the lower bolts. Push enough so you have enough room to work those drill bits into the bike main spine upper frame holes

about this much. Now stop and secure your frame. I tightend the lower bolts abit. Your kinda stretching your wire bundles. So be careful! Right side of bike shown here

left side of bike shown here. Thats enough room to get your drill in there.

rubber boot comes off carb. No worries it will go back on easy

mask off area with rags to catch chips….Lots and lots of oily messy steel chips. Remember your carb inlet is exposed. Tape around that exposed area. Then tape again. If chips get in there, you may need a carb rebuild to remove those shavings and thats another story

start with the smaller drill in kit. Try to keep bit level and �pick-up� threaded hole. Go slow! Use cutting fluids on tip so it does not get hot. If you see smoke from fluid, your going too fast. Should take you about 15 min with just this bit to go 1/2 way thru. Then goto other side and repeate till the holes connect in the center. No turning back now sparky!

another view of drilling operation. Slow and steady, pull drill back about every 60 sec to re-lub and vacuum chips. Use magnet also to clear chips.

Once you are about 1/2 way thru, You�ll need to switch sides and start on opposite side. Hopefully, the holes will align. Mine did Whew!

hole is drilled thru with the .3085 inch diameter drill. Will need to open up to .4025 inch.

pass one done

use shop vac to pick up chips

I had difficulty starting the �big� drill, so I opted to use an intermediate size step drill method to remove a bit more. The center drill is .342 inch. This step made the last drilling operation easier.

step drill

final drill

bolt fits here. Slides in easy

like this, thread side extending

now I need to open up these 2x remaining holes on sub-frame.

same process, much easier this time…use compressed air and magnet to remove chips from work area. Realign the frame holes now. Easy, just pull rack forward. Check that carb boot engages back on carb. Inspect muffler also. It may have came loose

We will need some of that high quality waterproof marine grease. This will assist in resisting joint/bolt galling and more importantly assist in preventing water ingress into these closed-out joints.

That�s the stuff I�m talking about sparky!

lube that bolt with waterproof grease

like this

work it in

needed to give a few taps with hammer, as drilled holes were not perfect aligned

all the way in

thread side

place that bushing in thru threads. Mine did not fit. Needed to grind and open it�s hole abit.

engage that self locking nut. No loc tight needed with this nut. Torque to 33 ft-lbs. Re-tighten that carb boot, retorque those lower subframe bolts to 18 in-lbs. Use red loc-tight on those.

humm….I have 4x extra sub-frame bolts available…I could give them away or…let me check the size of these foot peg fasteners

8.8 grade..not too bad

12.9 is 50% stronger material for same diameter

length = 30 mm

30 mm here too!

same diameter and thread. Whoo hoo!

check torque. Torque to 13.5 ft-lbs

prep fasteners for installation. May need to remove these at some point so Blue loc-tite is best for this application

install foot pegs with new improved cap style fasteners

more bolts for the collection cup

work area when finished….What a mess…
Kit review and lessons learned:
1. The upgrade gives piece of mind that no sub-frame failures will occur over the bikes life
2. I would recommend the �drill thru� mod only for those with machine shop experience
3. I would recommend the $5.00 kit for those not confident in the drill thru mod. You still gain a 20% increase in sub-frame strength.
4. I would recommend upgrading your foot pag fasteners with the 12.9 cap style.
5. Although my install was successful, may things can go wrong, such as:
5a drill breaks in hole
5b chips get into carb inlet
5c holes do not align
5d overheat the steel frame and change the temper of the material
6. The drill thru mod effectively doubles the upper sub frame fastener strength and increases the lower sub-frame strength by 20%.
If I had to do this again I would:

study up on drilling

Add an additional step drill. 3x steps total. The last drill would be a size W or .385 inch

Then final cut step would be with a piloted reamer. A piloted reamer gives a mirror like surface finish of an RHR of 32. The reamer has a pilot of .385 inch and a final cut size of .4005 inch

use cutters like these designed to open up holes in steel. See the reamer here: Reamers%20-%20Straight%20Shank,%20Straight%20Flute&fam=HIGH%20SPEED%20STEEL%20REAMERS
see part # 99-708 The reamer costs $20.00 and is 7 inches long
You can buy these 12.9 grade bolts here:…25&cs=81&cm=23
fork me I�m done!
KLR maintenance

Pennytech side cases w/pics

Build your own side cases

hondo's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 968
I need to get the fixed hinges bent, and need to get to the rivets holding the top of the hinge to the can.

So I need to gut the lids to get to the hinges.

I drilled a 1/2 hole in each corner of stainless steel lid liner.

Then I connected the holes with my jigsaw-

The saw cut deep enough that I could pry out most of the lid’s foam in one piece with a scraper/putty knife-

Then I went around the edges and removed what was left-

I pushed down the remaining liner enough to get it free of the crimp that holds it in place. I did this on each long side of the lid & cut them with aviation snips-

Then I hammered the liner edge with the knife to break it free-

Then I scraped them out pretty well-

Now I can get to the hinges. First I drilled out the heads inside the lid-

Popped off the steel backing plate-

And removed the rivets from the hinge. I’m saving these to help choose the correct size screws.

Now the lids are free from the base.

While I was at it, I got out the old bodywork tools and removed some dents from the lids. I” be keeping them seperated until assembly-

Here’s the hinge free of the lid- now I can bend the hinge arms to go around the seal.

I also removed the handles today. They were all bent so I removed them using the vice grips. I attached one vice grip to the verticle, and the other to the horizontal-

Then I leveraged one against the other until it popped out-

My hammer did a nice job of straitening them out-

Before being installed, they will be painted and a rubber hose slipped over the handle. Still gotta figure out how I’ll do that.

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Old 03-06-2007, 06:26 AM   #3
hondo's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 968
I worked on the mounts a bit today.

Drove to a local metal supplier and started looking through their* aluminum stock scrap/cutoffs for what I needed.

My rack is a Happy Trails Northwest Rack which is constructed of 5/8 tubing, so I first picked out some 5/8 square stock.

Then I found a peice of 1/2 X 1 3/8 stock.

They had a $20.00 minimum, so I grabbed some other stock that I thought I might use in the future-

Then I measured the places where the 3 mounts (per case) will go-

Bottom -* * * 7 1/2 inches long
Upper rear -* 3 inches long
Upper FWD -* 2 1/2 inches long.

Then I cut the stock to length-

Here’s a side view of the 2 pieces of the mount-

And here’s a cross section of the mounts, frame and Mermite case-

I’ll be drilling and tapping the 2 pieces of the mount stock and then bolting them together. Ideally a one piece mount milled out of aluminum (like the ones Happy Trails sells) would be best, but I’m sure that these will be plenty strong enough.

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Old 03-06-2007, 06:27 AM   #4
hondo's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 968
Here’s a layout I drew up-

Both the inside of the cans will have a sheetmetal reinforcement- the cans are stamped & uneven and this will strengthen cases and make a nice place to mount to.

The mounts are setup like a Touratec system I saw. The lower mount will be permanently attached to the case using 2 bolts. The case will be lowered onto the frame, and then the top mounts installed using one bolt or a thumbwheel (I may make my own thumbwheels).

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Old 03-06-2007, 06:27 AM   #5
hondo's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 968
Worked on the mounts a bit today, prepping the 2 pieces mating surfaces so that they are are flat.

Since I don’t have access to a mill, I fell back on the old computer overclocker’s trick of lapping. Overclockers have been lapping their cpus and heatsinks for years, in order to get the mating surfaces of the cpu & heatsink as flat as possible for better heat transfer.

I stopped into Ace and bought 3 sheets of 180 grit emery paper and a $3.00 sheet of glass. I taped one end of the paper to the glass & to my desk. You lap the item on with the paper on the glass because glass is so flat.

Here’s the setup-

Here’s a small pice getting it’s mating surface lapped-

And before and after shots-

Then I used a King Size Sharpie to apply the “blueing”-

Last edited by hondo : 03-06-2007 at 06:49 AM.

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Old 03-06-2007, 06:28 AM   #6
hondo's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 968
Did some paint stripping the last few days.

I checked around for a place that did plastic media blasting but couldn’t find one. I did find a company that would chemical dip then bead blast them, but the total cost was $130.00.

So I decided to do it the hard way, the cheaper way, and when finished, have tools left over.

First thing I did was remove all of the hinges by drilling out the rivets. I had to do this because the seal is getting in the way of the hinges and bending them wasn’t working. I also remoived the brackets that the handles go into, as I plan on using different end handles. More on that later.

So I first tried some of the orange citrus stripper. Worked pretty good, but looked like it was going to take a few applications. Then I tried some traditional stripper, and that didn’t work well at all. So I blasted them off at a car wash and moved onto the next stage.

Dropping into Harbor Freight Tools today, I picked up a mini 90 deg air ginder ($25) and some prep wheels ($14)-

Then I dropped a sheet of plastic in the garage and got busy stripping the paint. I used water with the grinder to prevent any dust, as these cans are marked 1974 and the paint might have lead in it. This process works well as it strips the paint and preps the metal for primer.

Here’s one with before and after sections-

I got both lids done and one can. Tomorrow I’ll finsh off the exterior prep of the other can and then work on the interiors, removing the foam residue with an abrasive wheel in my die grinder.

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Old 03-06-2007, 06:28 AM   #7
hondo's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 968
I finished the exterior & interior stripping / paint prep-


Interior- (not completely bare, as it will be painted & unexposed)

Then I needed to fab some sheetmetal for the interior mount facing. What can I use? How about an old PC case (I have a bunch of them)-

The steel on these old PC cases is very strong so it will make good bracing for the cans/mounts. here it is laying in the can-

I also patched a few small holes in the base of the cans with some JB Weld-

Tommorow I will be cutting up another case for the steel plates for the exterior of the cans and working on the mounts.

Mine are bed-linered. Here’s a look at what can be done with the lid if you leave the original seal. I keep a rain pancho stuffed up there.

I too am interested in locking ideas. I was going to work some kind of cable lock up or a hasp.

Did a bit of work getting the mermites & the KLR ready for Moab.

I needed to make a rear turn signal relocation bracket because the cans would hit the lights in the stock location.

Looked around and made a bracket out of 1 inch 90 deg angle iron I had from a previous project. I folded over the ends in a vise and drilled mounting holes in the end-

Here is the bracket with the lights mounted. One side is off as it got “tweaked a while back. Overall lenght is 7 inches.

Then I painted it with the same paint the mermites will be, Rustoleum Hammered finish silver and mounted the lights. They are inside of the rack so if I drop the KLR without the cans installed they should still be ok. I mounted the bracket to the rear of the luggage rack using standard hardware and 2 large bilts as spacers.

The rack tself had 2 mounting tabs welded the bottom (each side) and I’m not going to be using them, so off they came with my cutoff tool & grinder. Touched up the bare metal with the silver.

I also got the hinge & other hardware ready.

The hinges were hitting the rubber gasket, so I made aluminum spacers that will go underneath each half of the hinge. The carrige strap hardware (4 each, top rt) I will be bolting to the tops of the lids. They will make for strong tiedowns.

After cleaning all of the hardware up, all the parts got a few coats of silver paint-

Here is a pic of the stainless steel handles that I bought at Home Depot. There will one on each end of the cases-

I also started making the thumbwheels. Using some 1 1/2″ X 3/4″ stock I had, I cut out some 1 1/2 inch square pieces. All of the edges were filed smooth and the corners were filed at 45 degree angles & smoothed as well. I then drilled and tapped the centers for the attachment bolt. I haven’t decided yet, but I may buy a mill (bit) and create a small recess in the tops of each wheel so that I can use carrige bolts (round topped & smooth).

With my trip to Moab quickly approaching, I woke early & headed out to the garage.

!st order of the day- wash the mermites & the reinforcing plates. I scrubbed them down in the bathtub using a scotchbrite sponge & good dishwashing soap.

Then I set them out to dry-

While I was waiting for them to dry, I moved on to the lids. After I gutted them, I found that they were pretty flimsy. So I decided to use some 1/4 inch birch plywood to reinforce them. It will also allow me to attatch items to the lids. Here the wood is just laying in the lids-

I then drilled a few holes in the lid and filled the space between the wood & the lid with expanding foam. The wood is sitting on the screws that are holding the carridge straps to the top of the lid- this created a 1 inch gap that the foam filled. I set a couple of old computers on top of the lids to keep that 1 inch gap-

After it dried I pulled the old computers off- here’s what was left over-

I scraped off the excess and then cut rectangular access holes where the srews/nuts that attach the hinges are located. In hindsight, I should have done this first. Doh!

Now the paint for the cans. I first primered the bare aluminum with a zinc chromate primer-

After letting that dry, I painted the exterior of the cans with 2 coats of Rustoleum Hammered Finish silver paint.

I also painted the mounts and assembled the thumbweels. I used 7/16 rod, JB welded the threaded rod into the thumbwheels threads-

After the paint dried on the outside of the cans, I needed to install the reinforcing plates. I used a waterproof construction adhesive at all of the points that the plates met the can-

Then I installed the inner & outer plates using red loctite on all of the fastners. When that was done, I painted the interior of the cans and the exterior plates.

While that was drying, I washed & primed the lids-

Then I painted 2 coats of the silver to the lids.

The paint on the cans dried and I finally got to mount the cans on the Happy Trails rack.

A rear shot-

The interior-

Here is a view of the mounts-

Then I moved on to installing the hinges. This took a while considering the way the hinges work. Here’s a side view of the hinges (closed). You can see how the aluminum blocks that made help the hinges clear the seal-

On the left hand side of the bike I ran into a small problem. As the rack is closer to the side panels on the left than the right (due to the muffler), I found that the forward hinge handle (of the left can) was going to hit the side panel. Nothing that the cutoff tool can’t handle. So I shortened it by half. The shorter hinge is on the right-

And here is the right can complete-

I used Shoe Goo to glue the seals in place. This stuff might not work, but considering how will it sticks, I thought I’d give it a try.

Tommorow I will post some pics of the cans installed from a few different angles.

Because the bike is leaning, it looks like the boxes are uneven, but they aren’t.

One last item I added- bungees in the lids for my rain gear.

I got this idea from JaySoy- thanks!

KLR maintenance

KLR LED Tail Light Mod

KLR650 LED tail light system install and review

Enclosed is a step by step procedure for replacing the stock 1157 tail light with a modern, low power consumption, bright LED replacement. I will also supplement the tail light with an aftermarket LED Light Bar. The advantages of the modification are as follows:
1. Long live bulbs. The bulbs will outlast the bike. Even the KLR!
2. No more bulb replacement
3. Low power consumption system
4. Brighter system
4. Vibration/shock resistant bulbs
5. More visibility = less likelihood of rear end collision
The inspriation for this modification is based on a thread by fellow KLRworld members including kramsetac, 75,000 miles, Quarterhorse 2, and �special adult� Bikerscout.
The LED�s can be found at The reflector tape can be found at any autoparts store in the near the paint supplies. LED Items to install:
1. 1157 tail/stop light LED replacement Radiant cluster 1.85 inch red Direct base Get SKU # 5302-19 for $34.99
2. 6 inch lightbar – red/black SKU 02010 $35.95

brushup on KLR650 electrical/wire issues

Items to be installed

LED 1157 tail light, Plug in existing socket

6 inch tail/stop light supplement. Not a tail light replacement. Will need to mount and wire this item

install instructions

reflector tape. Metallica…Rock on Man…”FreeBird”!!! hehehe

remove tail light plastic housing

exposed bulb and �dull� reflector

stock bulb and LED replacement

backside view

install LED in socket. Just push while turning. May need to rotate 180 degrees when installing. Will only engage correctly one way

all installed, No issues fits fine

need to remove the housing reflector to make it mirror like finish. Remove these 2x nuts 10mm wrench

unhook wires 3x total. Just pull while turning. Don�t worry it won�t brake. I added tape so I know to reconnect the correct wires together

2x nuts off, 3x wires labeled and disconnected

reflector can now be removed

now apply that mirror sticky side tape

unroll the 6 foot long tape, cut 1 foot or so.

the housing is symmetric so you can work from the paper side

trim to fit

peel back the paper exposing the adheasive

inlay on the plastic reflector….No worries about heat from LED�s. There is none!

mirror like reflection…see the camera?

now the sides

mark trim lines

inlay to check

tape opposite side

like so!

back side now. Since it is curved it will have to be installed piecemeal

cover screw studs

drape the material as best you can

almost done

check bulb does not contact material

check power consumption

Stock bulb tail light only .446 amps or 6.24 watts of power

Stock bulb Brake light only 1.903 amps or 27 watts of power

New LED tail light only .070 amps or 1.0 watts of power

New LED Brake light only .354 amps or 5 watts of power
The LED consume ~ 17% of the stock wattage. Woohoo!

light bar tail on at .020 amps or .24 watts

light bar Brake light at .25 amps or 3.0 watts

need to make 3x of these electrical splice/spliters to run power to LED light bar

will attach here

like so. Each one is color coded. Look at Stebel horn install for walk thru of making a wire bundle

reattach the tail light housing
add LED bulb

thread wires thru opening

attach color coded wire bundles

awaiting to attach to LED bar

make and attach LED bracket, use this Aluminum angle

trace outline

mark cutting trim lines

after bandsaw cut

will attach bracket here, measure hole pitch

transfer measurements

trim bracket with band saw

quick check to see if fits ok

drill mounting holes in bracket tabs

drilled and deburr holes

check fit

mount light bar here

use rubber gasket as template

mark holes

attach bar to bracket with metric M4-.7 allen head bolts

check drill size

drill and deburr

ready to mount

thread wire thru center access hole

use loctite on threads

looks good!

ready to mount on bike

pickup these 2x holes

drill small hole to thread wires under fender

mounting complete

wires threaded thru here

standoff view lights off

wires to connect to splicer

wire splice tools ready!

cut excess length

strip insulation

add 1x small shrink wrap (white) + 1x large shrink wrap (black) + one waterproof 20 AWG wire crimp connector

crimp connector

shrink wrap connectors

repeat all 3x connectors

zip tie the wires to frame…now for the results……

OEM stock tail bulb tail light only (no brake)

LED tail light (no brake)

OEM stock brake light

LED brake

LED tail

LED brake
I think the system exceeded my expectations
1. Low power consumption LED use ~ 20% of incandescent power (6.24 watts vs. 1.24 watts LED) for tail light and (27 watts vs. 8 watts) for brake light.
2. Recommend adding the reflective material
3. Vibration resistant system.
4 Much brighter than stock. Nice safety issue! Especially if viewed from directly behind.
5. Independent Fail-safe light system.
Happy with mod

I have also designed a custom 5.5 watt LED superbright fog lights. See below:

1/4 view lights off

forward view lights on

with camera filter

KLR maintenance

KLR Doohickey Mod

KLR Doohickiy Mod


KLR maintenance

KLR DIY LED Aux Lights

Homemade LED Auxiliary Lights for the KLR650 DIY

Enclosed are the step by step instructions I used to make custom LED auxiliary/running lights. The intent of the lights are to supplement the KLR650 headlight. The advantages of this lighting system are:
1. Bight lights = increased visibility. A safety issue
2. 2x additional forward facing bright lights gives other drivers a depth perseption in judging your distance relative to their location.
3. LED�s are very vibration resistant, never burn out, and are low power consumption. The ones I selected are the brightest I could find within a 1 inch diameter cluster. This system consumes 5.4 watts total!
Note: No LED auxiliary lights are commercially available, so I was forced to make my own. There are 4x phases of this install.
1. LED bulb evaluation.
2. Light attach bracket to KLR650 (fellow KLRworld Mark was the inspiration for my design).
3. LED bulb attach to light housing.
4. Wiring to bike.
The Bracket material was 6061-T6 at .10 inches thick. It can be found here for $11.87, all you need is a 12 inch x 12 inch size:…owunits=inches
The LED�s can be found on E-bay here for $13.50 each: emZ200061654414
The auxillary lights can also be found on E-bay here for $14.99 30090466726
The cost of the modification costs about $54 total!

start all projects by reviewing topic

light bracket overall size 12 inch x 7 inch

remove front fender

measure attach bracket pad �land� size

gross trim iteration 1.

after the band saw

check placement

trim again

mark again

trim again

locate attach holes, this bracket will be part of the fender stack-up

drill here

check hole size

drill and deburr

time to place back on bike

check clearance. Does not hit the nerf bars! That�s good.

light will be mounted about here

this is the light to mount. This one came with a 55 watt H3 type bulb. I replaced the as delivered bulbs with these 35 watt bulbs

need this 12 volt DC source for testing. It actually puts out 14 volts.

amp and volt meter

shrink wrap kit

wire connector kit

35 watt H3 bulb output

measured output = 3.016 amps or 42 watts

This is the LED I�ll be swapping out for that H3 incandescent bulb.

measured output =.192 amps or 2.7 watts per bulb

bulb diameter = 1.034 inch

will fit the bulb deep and securely in this light housing

side by side . Small LED flashlight, normal 2 D cell flashlight, 12 volt LED light, and 35 watt H3 bulb.

LED has cluster lights shining to the side

measure small diameter = .577 inches

power-up the LED�s. very bright and cool to the touch

light from rear

need to attach(glue) this plastic washer to the LED�s

washer size outer diameter = 1.258 inch. Can get at Home Depot

measure and trace

best to hand file to the marking

press fit on the LED�s

need to attach some of this reflector tape to those washers

trace and cut

attach to LED

glue on

disassemble these new lights

like so

mark trim line

will fit LED deep in here

ready for cutting/trimming

since the metal is so thin, best to route to trim line. Drill will thrash the housing. Spotface won�t work either.

slowly open-up the hole

blow out particles collected

nice centered hole to accept the LED bulb

center LED bulb in hole

tape in place. Note: I destroyed a light housing in an earlier attempt at this project by gluing the bulb in place at this step. The fumes given off while the glue is curing got into the reflector area and stuck to the reflector and glass. This made the reflector �dull�. Tape works fine. Although not clearly shown it is fully taped up and sealed.

like in this view

the LED bulb extends far into the light housing and is secure

another view

remove the baseplate for trimming

want it flush up to the bracket

measure and mark. Need to take a little off the edge



tad bit off the end

re-assemble. Note: I reversed the light bracket to the rear

will fit like this

final bracket trimming required

mark trim lines

band saw trim

disc sanding trim

light attach holes

drill, deburr, and countersink

quick check on fender

attach on bike

adjustable sturdy and robust design

check clearance. No issues

A-OK here too!

make wire connectors. White = 12v ground. Black and Red = 12v +

crimp and shrink wrap

Using this on all electrical connects to keep water out of the connections

light wiring all done

view of system with no power

wire connection in faring. No binding issues when turning handle bar

the bike side connection is covered here �KLR650 Marker lights install and review�:,1956.0.html
I�m basically tapping into the city light leads in the front faring.

fire up the lights!

with headlight on

close up of LED light

off centerline view

lights off

1/4 view lights off

forward view lights on

1/4 view lights on. Note small marker light on faring

another view

with camera filter

off front view
Review of Mod.
1. Very bright system. I�ll leave them on always.
2. Low power consumption 5.4 watts total.
3. Low cost modification $54 total
4. Light system will outlast the bike
In summary I�m very pleased with the project outcome, It exceeded my expectations.

KLR maintenance

KLR Alternator Mod

Enclosed are step by step detailed instructions for installation, lessons Learned, and review of the new whiz-bang 400 watt Electrosport stator and regulator . Since I’m  way there, I’ll be swapping out my Doo Hicky and cleaning my oil screen also. See the ~90 pictural walk-thru toutorial of the Doo Hicky swap here:
and the oil screen cleaning Step-by-step here:
My bike is a 2007 KLR650 with 1,600 miles

Start with a little research…You�ll have to excuse the crudity of my KLR-650 library. I really need to organize the topics better…hehehe

First Drain the oil, I use the center stand for this task

Low profile magnetic drain plug, new crush washer with every oil change.

Now jack-up the bike, Jack is a Sears Craftman brand with a few added brackets

remove side covers, notice re-located helmet lock with cable. Easy access and attach full face helmet.

remove seat. All my KLR fasteners have been upgraded to stainless �cap� style fasteners (Allen Key) See:

Remove tank bolts

Gas off, remove gas line

rag to catch gas drippings

side covers pry from tank

All the Items removed

set up bike for task….Lots of light

Shop space/tables open…tools available

the doo kit from Eagle Mike…Will need that outer gasket for the stator

Area to open up!

Shifter lever off. Small mart to re-align teeth when re-installing

Take bolt all the way out…rachet wrench works best…wiggle lever off…

set aside with bolt in place as to not lose

one peg bolt off…loosen other…swivel aside as to clear outer case

Like this

sprocket cover next….3x fasteners

set aside

neutral wire….grab with fingers…wiggle straight problem

wire off ….connector exposed

remove kick stand switch cover for better access to wire bundles to thread

loosen outer cover…..NOT inner cover…triple check which bolt is attached to outer cover

loosen all about this much…your fasteners may not be cap heads

notice inner cover fastener still fully engaged

loosen wire bundle bracket

remove bracket…long bolt comes with it

crack the case…try to maintain integrity of gasket…If tears….you will need a new one. Mine tore.

remove all fasteners here shown is 2x helper tabs to assist in prying with fingers

keep all parts on table with labels

pull outer case straight back…some oil will drip…have rags handy

tie off stator…don�t let wires hold it�s weight! Have wires/string/bungee available prior to removal

Attach here

here is is

lay on small table to work

with lots of light

need to remove this bracket screw

and these 3x attach cap bolts

stupid screw phillips head thrashed

get out drill…place rags around work area….tip cover to side

drill slow..don�t let chips fly

use depth gage to predict when manufactured head will be drilled off

there we go! Head off….no damage to bracket

un-thread screw threads with fingers…easy

area where removed

the parts removed…need to find replacement

Metric coarse thread M6-1.0 see: for KLR650 specific fastener data

find torque while at it…use this KLR fastener chart

go to your fastener bin and find a match…use stainless cap head style

The correct matching length 12 mm

remove rubber wire seals…pull/pry off case

like this

new 400 watt stator to install

follow wire path to radiator overflow location on bike. Thread new wires following OEM wires

like this

route thru here

zip tie as you go

disconnect OEM re-connect new

Take old out….Don�t sell on E-bay yet!

need some of this stuff

apply to the wire gaskets…Note the new stator has only 1x wire gasket while the OEM had 2x wire gaskets

place bracket back in place

torque to 61 in-lbs

tighten this new bolt

Check 3x stator torque values….Use 61 in-lbs for a 6mm bolt…

3x bolts torque

prep outer gasket…light coat both sides

ready to reinstall case

finger thread bolts…note: a .25 inch gap exists between case and frame. Cannot close with hand pressure….carefully tighten fasteners…cris-cross pattern 1x turn at a time. It will slowly close up the gap.

toruque to 25 inch-lbs cris cross pattern…repeat with 68 in-lbs.

All buttoned up
re-attach wire bundle clip and push wires back into slot with small tool

Re-attach wire bracket with long bolt 68 in-lbs

cut zip ties
Now for the regulator. Reach under rear fender to hold nuts. Un-thread bolts 2x. Un-clip wire socket and install new regulator…they included a long unnecessary wire to it�s socket

regulator extra wire location

just eeked it in….contacts the rubber bumpers

loktite the attach fasteners…the blue paste type

add oil, re-attach shifter, foot peg, neutral wire

all done
Review and observations:
1. Bike started….
2. No leaks….
3. The headlights dim a lot at idle….light up when throttle is engaged. I don�t believe this was the case with OEM stator.
4. Have left side outer cover gasket handy. I needed one.
5. Have a M6-1.0 10 mm stainless cap screw available.
6. I would not say this is a �plug and play� install
7. Best to include a headlight “cutoff” switch. See step-by-step KLR650 headlight switch easy install here:
Still some concerns about the mod….Seems like a lot of work and cost for the risk associated with this new Item. I hope Electrosport stands behind there products!