Cards tell stories. Lines and paths can be traced along folds on paper or by the glow of a screen, and replaced with the stories of those who either created or found them. Some of these stories are easier to read than others. As the third largest state in the United States, California arguably contains the largest collection of diverse terrains and environments of any state in the nation. Located right in the heart of the state, the Eastern Sierra, Owens Valley, and White Mountains are perhaps California’s most diverse region. The landscapes around the Owens Valley are packed into approximately 2,000 square miles and offer something for everyone – from the casual traveler to the adrenaline-hungry adventure seeker.
Much of the valley’s history is based on its rich natural resources, mainly in the form of minerals and water. Numerous mining operations from the 19th century onwards led to boom-and-bust communities throughout the valley, the remains of which can be explored today. Extensive farming declined when water resources were pulled from the valley in the early 20th century to serve the rapidly growing population of Los Angeles.
Today conservation efforts are taking great strides to restore Owens Valley’s ecosystems to their former state. Despite the missteps in infrastructure, the abundance of natural beauty and quirky history in this central part of California makes it a prime destination for any adventure biker.
We spent a lot of time exploring the Eastern Sierra and creating an epic adventure bike route that showcased some of its most unique sights. We have also put together all the information you need to plan your own adventure ride in the region, including an interactive map, GPS tracks with top travel destinations, fascinating natural wonders, picturesque campsites and more. Read on to discover 14 sights worth visiting while driving in the Eastern Sierra!
1. Coso volcanic area
Highway 395 begins with a gradual ascent up an ancient lava flow as it enters Owens Valley from the south. Once the road leveled, Little Lake and Red Hill in the Fossil Falls area greeted travelers. The aptly named Red Hill is a distinct ash dome next to the highway. The strangely fresh appearance of this large feature is due to its status as the region’s youngest volcano, which was only active 10,000 years ago.
Melting glaciers from the last Ice Age have created a number of lakes in the Owens Valley. Little Lake is a holdover from the Owens River, which flowed through the area about 2,500 years ago and slowly drained the melting glaciers. Volcanic activity that diverted the course of this river across the lava flows smoothed the basalt rock into a number of interesting shapes now known as Fossil Falls.
2. Olancha
Almost immediately next to the rocky sea of the Coso Volcanic Range lies a sea of sand. The Olancha Dunes OHV area is a relatively small equestrian area consisting of just under two square kilometers of small, gently sloping sand dunes. With sparse crowds and the only main dune roughly 25 feet high, this OHV spot is a great choice for newer riders looking to practice their sand driving techniques.
For onlookers, Olancha offers one of the bizarre feasts for the eyes in the Owens Valley Corridor – the Olancha Sculpture Garden. In the midst of natural beauty on a grand scale, the desert artist Joel Hoffmann planted a statue made of bizarre metal sculptures at a height of up to 4 meters. While in stark contrast to the surroundings, the sculptures appear to be at home in the already eclectic surroundings of new and old buildings that are both abandoned and still in use the area.
3. Buckhorn freight car cabin
More than a stone’s throw from an already secluded stretch of Saline Valley Road, a modern mystery parks alone. There are no railroad tracks anywhere in the area, but a two-room freight car sits enthroned on a low incline. Mining prospects began excavating this area of Owens Valley in the 1930s, and federal mining claims can still be seen today.
William Buckhorn filed the Buckhorn claims in 1958, and some believe that was when the freight car was planted here for use as a home base. Details of how exactly it got to its current location remain the subject of theory and guesswork. To this day, volunteer travelers are waiting for the cabin and keeping it for future travelers.
4. Cerro Gordo
“Rough and tumble” might be the best phrase to sum up Cerro Gordo. From the award of once the most violent city in the United States to the challenging terrain on the eastern driveway, the difficulty seems to go hand in hand with Cerro Gordo. As with much of this early western US history, the details of how Cerro Gordo looks on the map are sketchy.
Silver finds by Mexican miners in 1865 are the main theory behind the formation of the city. It took a year for the first store to open and three more years for Mortimer Belshaw to arrive and turn Cerro Gordo into a boom town with the establishment of the Union Mining Company. The impressive American Hotel was built in 1871 and stood for 149 years until it burned down in June 2020.
The story of Cerro Gordo took an interesting turn in 2018 when the ghost town was bought by a group of investors led by Brent Underwood and Jon Bier who are in the process of restoring the city. Now privately owned, the caretakers are friendly to visitors and happy to guide you through the site. On site, visit a museum of relics dug out of the mines, or visit the Assayer’s Office, where the miners received payment for their ore – conveniently located next to Lola’s Palace of Pleasure. There’s also an old mining tower, remains of the Cerro Gordo tram, and other historic buildings scattered throughout. Travelers are welcome, but keep in mind that as you explore the area you are literally walking around someone’s apartment.
5. Owens Lake
Hidden between the mountain ranges of the Sierra Nevada and the Inyo Mountains is a massive, discolored valley with a shallow lake in the middle. This small body of water, Owens Lake, was once one of the largest inland lakes in the United States. Through a series of shrewd deals, the water rights to the Owens Valley were captured from an emerging Los Angeles, and an aqueduct was completed in 1913 that began draining the valley in a short time, and by the early 1920s, Owens Lake was turned into a dry lake bed become .
Before the aqueduct was built, Owens Lake was so massive that it took freight wagons days to circumnavigate the lake and deliver ingots to the east from the various mining operations. Today fewer than 70 people live, the town of Keeler once had a 100-meter-long quay and a steamboat that, as an alternative to the land route, took three hours to cross the lake. In 2013, the now dry Owens Lake was named the largest source of dust in the United States. Efforts are currently being made to restore the ecosystem of this part of Owens Valley.
6. Papoose flat
Papoose Flat is a boon for those looking for moderately technical driving coupled with stunning scenery. The western starting point is the technical trail with isolated sections of steep, rocky trails connected with some off-camber bits. If you enter the high plateau from the northeast, the roads are significantly less technical, but not without their own challenges, depending on which option trails are used.
Whichever route is chosen, travelers are rewarded with breathtaking views of an empty valley, coupled with rock formations that rival something one might expect in Joshua Tree, but at elevations of 7,000 to 9,500 feet. Pinyon Pines dot the landscape and provide a unique backdrop for some of the best primitive campsites in the Owens Valley.
7. White Mountains
While the Sierra Nevada has the two highest peaks in California, the third highest is the White Mountain Peak in the adjacent White Mountains at 14,252 feet. The high altitude and easy access made this summit a choice for the White Mountain Research Center. This research station, operated by the University of California, studies the effects of altitude on physiology.
Probably the most unique distinction of the White Mountains are the bristle pines and in particular one called Methuselah. Methusalah is the oldest known living organism on earth, almost 5,000 years old. It is estimated that this tree germinated around the time the Sumerians began working with metal. While the exact location of Methuselah is a secret to the Forest Service, access to the forest is an easy paved drive to the information center.
Beyond the bristle cone forest, the road turns into smooth, graded dirt all the way to White Mountain Research Station. However, the station is only open to the public on a Sunday during the Labor Day holiday weekend one day a year. For those looking for a more adventurous route up or down the mountain, the extremely steep and winding trail of Silver Canyon leads straight to Bishop to the west.
8. Fischslough petroglyphs
If you turn off the freeway at Five Bridges Road, you can discover more puzzles just off Fish Slough Road. Travelers on the slick, dusty trail can be steps off the road to see the Fish Slough petroglyphs. While the style of the glyphs has been given a name, both their age and who created them remain largely guesswork. Ancestors of the Paiute Shoshone people who still live in the Owens Valley may have created these petroglyphs, with long-range date estimates between 1,000 and 8,800 years ago.
In terms of a swamp, cove, or side canal, the dry and dusty trail of Fish Slough Road doesn’t seem to deserve its name until you turn off the road and make a quick detour east. As you ride to green spots, you’ll discover a lush wetland filled with tiny life chained along the eastern edge of the corridor, complete with lock gates to control the flow of water. The Owens pupa fish is endemic to the area and was thought to be extinct until 1948, but a small population was rediscovered in Fish Slough in 1964. They grow to be about two inches long and the males turn light blue during spawning. After visiting the petroglyphs, stop by to cool off and see if you can spot one.
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